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    Spring: From Brittle Ice to Splitter Sandstone
    akijoy8
    • Mar 29, 2018
    • 5 min

    Spring: From Brittle Ice to Splitter Sandstone

    After the eventful climbing on Rocket Boy, I (perhaps subconsciously) switched my sights over to bolt protected mixed climbs. The next week, Ryan and I cruised up to a new age classic, the Nutcracker. The Nutcracker is a fully bolted 4 pitch variation to the Hyalite test piece Winter Dance. It boasts awesome steep climbing in the most incredible position in the canyon. I got the send two years prior, but I followed the crux pitch and wanted to lead it this time. P5 of Nutcrac
    Back to Winter
    akijoy8
    • Jan 20, 2018
    • 3 min

    Back to Winter

    First of all, my apologies for the high quantity of low quality iPhone pictures. Maybe some day I'll buy a camera... My last post ended with an upcoming attempt on Freerider, which eventually fell through. A nasty case of Poison Oak and an even worse cold shut down Cheyenne and I after the first 12 pitches. We ended up rock climbing around Tahoe for the rest of her visit, enjoying the beautiful climbing at Donner Summit. Cheyenne feeling the effects of a cold near the top of
    Freeing Kingpin
    akijoy8
    • Sep 13, 2017
    • 3 min

    Freeing Kingpin

    This weekend marked the end of my guiding season and the beginning of my climbing season. All the hard work I put in this summer allowed me to save up for my time off. To make this period as productive as possible, I had to prepare to meet some of my goals ahead of time. The first goal I had was to free Kingpin, a route that Adam and I had put up last year in the Beartooths. It is a seven pitch climb with over 40 bolts, including belays. It went in ground up at 5.11+ A2, a wa
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